Least the Plexiglas Parts 6
5.5 Hours the last few days, I been able to get most of the remaining canopy work done. The canopy skirts and front fairing still need to be completed, but, at this point, I think I done trimming Plexiglas and can safely retire the cut off disc I been using.
All that was left to do on the aft window was to finish countersinking some of the holes in the Plexiglas and tap the holes in the roll bar for 6 32 screws. Both of these tasks were quick and painless, and now the aft window can be put away until I ready for finalassembly.
I been meaning to modify the canopy release mechanism, so that became my next task. I don think opening the canopy in flight is a realistic option as I rarely, if ever, going to have a parachute on. Therefore, I see no need to have a canopy release handle protruding through the instrument panel. A search revealed many ways, from simple to very complex, to modify the handle. how to paint motorcycle fairings I decided to keep it simple. I just shortened the handle so that it only comes through the sub panel when in the closed position (pulling opens it). To do this, I removed about 4 5 inches from the handle, then re cut the slot where the handle attaches to the latch mechanism. I also installed a cushion clamp on the sub panel to hold the handle in place. With this modification, I won be able to release the canopy in flight, but, on the ground, it will be easy to reach in with a wrench, remove one bolt, and pull the handle to remove the canopy.
I shortened the canopy release handle so it only reaches the sub panel. It won work in flight, but it will still be easy to release on the ground. The cushion clamp will attach to the handle and keep it from backing out, but I have a feeling I be removing the canopy a few more times.
The forward side of the canopy release mechanism. Nothing is changed except the length of the handle and I won need the spring that runs from the sub panel to the back of the panel. yamaha r3 fairings
Once my canopy release modification was completed and test, I removed the canopy, canopy frame and roll bar. The roll bar needed to be repainted in areas that were scratch during the canopy fitting, and the canopy frame needed to be painted for the first time. I also decided that this would be a good time to paint the glare shield portion of the canopy frame. The glare shield received a coating of matte black, while the rest of the canopy frame and the roll bar received the hammered metallic silver paint that I been using on the interior.
After the paint dried, I reinstalled the canopy frame and canopy. At this point, I decided to drill the latch brackets to the aft side of the frame. I couldn find any way to do this while the roll bar was in place, and it was still hard to complete without the roll bar. However, I eventually got them drilled and have a nice tight fit that should still be OK once the roll bar is in place. If anything, the canopy will be too tight, but I can fix that by simply filing away a bit of the canopy latch fingers. With the latch brackets installed, gsxr 750 fairings it was kind of fun to be able to use the canopy latch on the outside of the plane for the first time.
Installing the canopy latch brackets is not an easy task. Once the roll bar is re installed, I can adjust the canopy up if needed by filing the latch fingers.
Finally, I removed all the clecoes from the canopy and installed a few screws to hold it in place. For now, I just put three screws on each side and every other hole around the aft bow. This will give flush surfaces on the sides so I can start working on canopy skirts.
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